Kyoto, Japan - 26th January 2023

The day began with the obligatory temple visit. This time two temples within easy walking distance of our Kyoto home, Nishi Hongan-ji and Higashi Hongan-ji.

Both were magnificent and elaborate with plenty of bling, standing in vast complexes close together and not far from the city's main station.

We were able to observe monks at worship and listen to their devoted chanting.

Nishi Hongan-ji

Higashi Hongan-ji claimed to have the second largest wooden building in Japan and also contained the oddity of a coil of rope made of the hair of female temple devotees, used to rebuild the temple after its destruction in the 1880s.

Temple Fatigue sets in.

Bicycle paid parking at the Mall

An entire morning of temple visiting resulted in a spot of temple fatigue and we decided to spend the afternoon in the main shopping area of the city checking out the work of the city's vendors and artisans. The first visit was to the basement food halls of two major department stores, Daimaru and Takashimaya, to salivate at the beautiful displays of bento boxes and other tasty delights.

Nestled around the modern department stores and worldwide chain stores, our guide book pointed out a couple of traditional gems.

The first, Tsujikura, took some finding being located on the seventh floor of an unassuming building. It was worth the effort of tracking down. The company produced stunning traditional waxed-paper umbrellas as it had since the 17th century (although maybe not on that seventh floor!). The welcoming hostess proudly demonstrated her beautiful wares, which she gamely allowed us to hold, despite our trepidation having worked out their value.

Waxed paper wagusa at Tsujikura.

Perfect accessory for our outfits!

Next we called at Aritsugu. Almost hidden in the Nishiki Market among the stalls of fish and vegetables, this company originally made swords when started in 1560. They have produce high quality kitchen knives. Each purchase carefully sharpened up for its buyer, who is given thorough instruction in its care.

We strolled the covered shopping arcades near the market, which were largely filled with souvenir shops but discovered a small, hidden temple, Somedonoin, with a history dating back to 1200 as a temple offering prayers for safe childbirth.

Somedonoin Temple

Backstreet Lamp shop

Backstreet plant shop.

Rather than heading back to our house along the main, busy shopping street, we took a parallel back street and discovered even more gems.